There’s a definite Disneyland hangover going on this
morning. Everyone is slow and
grumpy. I guess this is a natural
letdown. How can you top the happiest
place on earth?
We try by going to a high point around L.A., the Griffith
Observatory, famed in the twinned worlds of astronomy and moviemaking. Actually I have no idea about the first one,
because the Observatory is closed when we are there but it is a rather
spectacular art deco structure, with great details about the planets and
surrounding celestial bodies scattered about the grounds. So it certainly looks like stellar thoughts were thunk here, and there are terrific
views of the entire area on this beautiful clear day. But we do know that it has been a setting in
countless films, television shows, and music videos ever since several critical
scenes in Rebel Without a Cause were
filmed there. Younger musical
enthusiasts might recall the lovely dance scene from La La Land. Gazing around,
you can’t help but notice the iconic sign on the hills rising behind you. Peter looks through the binoculars. “I think it says ho-lee-wood” he intones.
Given its iconic status in film history, the Observatory is
not a bad starting point for this day that will be our homage to Hollywood.[1] Next stop (and wow, it is way hotter down
here than it was up in them thar hills) is Grauman’s Chinese Theater – which
while clotted with kitsch[2]
is still pretty great! There are Esther
William’s handprints, and Rosalind Russell and Judy Garland and the cast of La La Land and gosh a whole lot of
others. They were here! And I’m here!
JUDY GARLAND, people. There are
also about five thousand tourists and a giant gorilla and a Marilyn Monroe
impersonator, and so on so it is all a bit much after a while but still a
little thrilling. Of course the Hollywood
Walk of Fame – the stars in the sidewalk – are also right there, and stretch on
for blocks. There are all kinds of
“stars” here, including some you’ve never heard of like technical masters of
film and song and some you wish you’d never heard of like Donald J. Trump.[3] Also there are monsters (Godzilla) and
magical people (The Munchkins).
The Walk of Fame is interesting but a little goes a long way
and you get a crick in your neck looking down all the time so we decamp to a blissfully
air-conditioned nearby hotel for lunch.
Then it’s studio tour time!
Research has helped us determine that Warner Bros. is the tour to take,
despite being rather spendy. And it does
not disappoint, even if there is more emphasis on Harry Potter and Friends than I really care for. Still, I’d take two hours of Friends
anecdotes and near-misses of Ellen for the opportunity to see the last
remaining set from Casablanca, known as the French Street, and Soundstage 11
where Auntie Mame and Damn Yankees and My Fair Lady and The Music
Man were filmed. I AM ACTUALLY
STANDING WHERE AUNTIE MAME STRODE AROUND IN THOSE GREAT PANTSUITS. Stick a fork in me because I’m done, this is
a lifetime highlight. They have recently
wrapped a season’s filming of a show called Lucifer
on this soundstage, and we learn all about that but I’m thinking that
magnificent staircase set . . . .
Also, there were Batmobiles and a jungle-y area where some
parts of Jurassic Park were filmed, also – and this was pretty awesome – the
swamp where Kermit sings “It’s Not Easy Being Green” in the first (best) Muppet
Movie. And we learn – shh, don’t tell
anyone – that Aquaman is getting his own movie and it will film here this
summer. Our guide can’t actually say the
name of the film but of course Peter could name that tune in one note.
Did I mention the little museum at the end where they have
some actual costumes from Casablanca and My Fair Lady? Swoon.
AND you can hold an actual Oscar.
Like the winners say, it’s heavier than it looks.
Moral of this story:
if you have a chance to take a studio tour, you should! It is really fun. Not Disneyland-fun, but just being near the
ghost of Auntie Mame was pretty close for me.
Not only did we walk in the footsteps of stars today, but we
dined with them too, or at least, made a culinary pilgrimage tonight. Lucques, on Melrose, is the first restaurant
of Suzanne Goin, a favorite cookbook author of mine and so a dining dream was
realized, thanks to Bill for suggesting it.
Among our starters were a citrus/avocado/buratta salad with a pistachio
vinaigrette (and was there a kumquat?) that was the sine qua non of each of
those items, and there was also some beef tartare. Then we had among us salmon (for Izzy, with
potatoes: her perfect meal. That was
really good! she remarked recently!), duck breast with artichoke and fennel
sausage, halibut with a green romesco and something called zhoug, and the
famous house short rib which has not been off the menu since the restaurant
opened. We finished with a vanilla cheesecake,
something to do with apple ribbons that also had a prune-and-armagnac ice cream
(!), and a vacherin with a cassis sorbet and vanilla ice cream and champagne
poured over it all! There was a
Manhattan with house-made vermouth and bitters and I’ve forgotten about the
wine except that it was a pinot noir and kind of fabulous with the duck. All so so good and I’m particularly pleased
that Peter pushed for this one rather than a more casual Goin establishment. Got in the car and Hotel California was playing
which seemed just about perfect for the drive home.[4]
[1]
This doesn’t quite work, does it? You
don’t aspirate the H in homage but you do in Hollywood. Otherwise it would sound like omage to
ollywood.
[2]
That’s better alliteration.
[3]
The Dear One’s star is a source of fascination and derision alike for the
crowds: they photograph it or are
photographed squatting over it like they’re taking a dump. You reap what you
sow, DJT.
[4]
We went through a ton of data on my phone this trip, as we used the google
mapper to find our way everywhere. It
got very confused winding its way up the hill to the house.
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