A very nice thing to do here is to walk along the beach to
breakfast. I would do this every day if
I lived here. During our return from
breakfast today we start to divine another message carved into the sand. We couldn’t get the right perspective when we
ascended the bluff, but we think it said:
Georgia Zimmerman will you maRry me
In addition to podcasts I also have about two weeks
(non-stop) of music on my phone, so we will never be bored. But the nautical playlist gets a workout on
our coastal drives. Sometimes we sing
along and sometimes we just hum, as in the case of Spanish Ladies to which we
don't know the words but which makes us think of Quint and the Vineyard.
Today we turn inland, but not before stopping at yet another
freaking lighthouse. This one is
admittedly pretty picturesque and you can even stay in a bed and breakfast at
the former keeper’s house, which looks like it would be fun.
As you drive south upon the coastal road you come to a point
where very suddenly, ahead of you, the craggy, rocky, pine-y, sharply-dropping
coastline ends and rolling, low-treed sandy dunes begin. It is just like someone drew a line inward
from the sea, and so goes the road.
Today is another of those
driving-back-and-forth-along-the-same-stretch-to-find-some-damn-site days, as
we hunt for a dunes trail that the Green Guide awarded two stars. The
Green Guide published 17 years ago, that is.
So we drive back and forth around Reedsport for about two hours total
trying to find access to the damn dunes.
A nice lady in the Umpqua Cultural Center directs us very well, except
that it is an ATV ground and that makes some members of our party a little
nervous so we head back to the car while the others have their Lawrence of
Arabia moment.
Before we got down here to Reedsport, we stopped to view a
weird grove of unearthly pitcher plants, known as the Darlingtonia
California, or cobra lily. We feel that
the excessively detailed signage, detailing the approximately 1/16 mile trail
is making up for the failure to sign properly at Cape Perpetua.
I should note that one of the great restaurant finds of our
trip was here in Reedsport, at the otherwise bland-looking Harbor Lights
restaurant where we discover marionberry bbq chicken and possibly the best
marionberry crisp for dessert. Thank
you, Yelp![1] We also use lunch to start our Eclipse 2017
playlist on Spotify. Moondance,
Moonshadow, Moon River, but also Black Hole Sun, Here Comes The Sun, Dark Star,
Ring of Fire, and what I think is the most creative addition: Eine Kleine Nachtmusik (get it? A little night?).
There is a lot of driving today and it is making me slightly
bats. It is too pretty out the window to
snooze but too quiet inside not to because our children don’t talk to us they
just listen to whatever is on their headphones.
[1] Who knew that Yelp would be a great restaurant
resource? It seems to work better in
smaller places, but gave us great reccos for Tillamook, Reedsport, Bend,
Redmond, and Hood River. The one
spectacular fail was in Roseburg, where it sent to us a place that was long
closed!
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